Overnight on the Santa Claus Express Train: Finland’s Scenic Route from Lapland to Helsinki

All aboard the Santa Class Express, the most festive way to travel to and from Finnish Lapland. My husband and I took the overnight journey from Rovaniemi to Helsinki in March 2024, opting for a private sleeper cabin with an en suite bathroom. The whole experience, which cost us €109 in total, turned out to be one of the most efficient and memorable ways to maximize our time in Finland.

Rather than spending valuable daylight hours in airports or paying for an extra hotel night, we traveled while we slept, watching snow-covered forests roll by and waking up refreshed and ready to explore Helsinki.

Operated by VR (Finland’s national railway), the Santa Claus Express is a double-decker night train offering several ways to ride, from budget seats to cozy sleeper cabins. The most affordable option is Eko Class with standard train seats. If you’d like a little extra elbow room, you can pay a small fee (about €10–11) to book a single seat or an empty seat next to you.

Groups can book private day compartments, which come with four standard seats and a small table. For overnight travel, there are two categories of sleeper cabins: those with shared bathrooms and those with private en suites. Both sleep up to two adults in bunk beds (200 x 75 cm), and come with linens, towels, pillows, and duvets. Upstairs cabins include a private toilet and shower, while the more compact downstairs cabins offer a washbasin and access to shared toilets.

VR also has options for accessible travel, including travel services for passengers with reduced hearing, mobility, or visual impairments, as well as services for long-distance journeys with young children.

The Train:

There’s also a restaurant car serving hot meals, salads, snacks, and alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. On our journey, the dinner menu featured items like meatballs and mashed potatoes, carbonara pasta, and salmon soup. In the morning, breakfast options included porridge, yogurt, pastries, and sandwiches. Prices were reasonable, and a handy tip: if you download the VR Matkalla app, you can access special discounts on certain food and drink items. You also have the option to pre-order meals when booking your ticket and have them delivered straight to your cabin.

The dining car was the center of life on our journey. It was full of families and friends chatting, playing card games, and relaxing, so beware that seating may be limited unless you claim a table early. Beyond that, the train offers free Wi-Fi, and you can bring along your pet, bicycle, or even your car for an extra fee.

The main route runs between Helsinki and northern destinations like Rovaniemi, Kolari, and Kemijärvi, with stops in towns like Oulu along the way. For other destinations in Lapland, VR provides clear transfer options for onward travel, including bus connections and alternate train routes.

Our private cabin was compact but comfortable and spotlessly clean upon our arrival. It featured two bunk beds with personal reading lights and outlets, a compact table and seat, and a large window to take in the views. There was even storage space beside each bunk to fit backpacks and suitcases. Each bed was made up with clean sheets, pillows, and duvets, and the top bunk was outfitted with a railing and straps latched to the ceiling, ensuring no risk of falls during the night. The cabin we booked was one of the a pet-friendly rooms, which meant it came with an extra towel, dog bowl, and water bottle.

The ensuite bathroom included a toilet, small sink, mirror, and a shower setup that pulled out from the wall. While the water pressure was minimal, you could make it work for a quick rinse. Basic toiletries like bath towels, soap, and toilet paper were included. The water isn't potable onboard, so a complimentary water bottle was provided for drinking and brushing your teeth. The no frills bathroom did the job and was quite convenient.

Private cabins also include their own locks and keys, so we were able to keep our belongings if we stepped out to stretch.

The Private Cabin:

Overall, the journey was far more restful than I anticipated. My husband and I were both able to sleep through the night without any issue. Thankfully, the train wasn’t too noisy or disruptive — though I could hear the occasional flush from a neighboring bathroom and light corridor chatter. If you’re a light sleeper or sensitive to noise, I’d recommend bringing earplugs just in case.

The views were a true highlight. Watching the sun set over snowy forests and waking up to a golden sunrise lighting up the Helsinki horizon made the ride feel magical. It was also rewarding to see more of the rural landscape, including tiny villages blanketed in snow.

Most importantly, the sleeper train let us reclaim valuable daytime hours. Instead of losing a day to transit, we traveled overnight and arrived in Helsinki ready to go.

If you’re heading between Lapland and Helsinki, consider the Santa Claus Express as your ride. It’s scenic, efficient, and a smart way to stretch your time in Finland.

The Experience:

• Booking: Reserve your tickets in advance at VR.fi to ensure availability, especially during peak seasons like winter and the Christmas holidays.

• Cabin Selection: If comfort and privacy matter to you, choose an upstairs cabin with an ensuite bathroom.

• Food Options: Meals can be pre-booked and delivered to your cabin, or purchased in the dining car. Download the VR Matkalla app for food discounts.

• Packing Tip: Bring earplugs, comfortable clothing, water bottles, and any personal toiletries you might need for extra comfort.

• Timing: The Rovaniemi to Helsinki journey takes around 12.5 hours.

• Connectivity: The train has free Wi-Fi, but signal can be spotty in rural areas, so download offline maps or entertainment beforehand.

• Extra Gear: Pets, bikes, and even cars can be brought onboard for an additional fee. Check the VR site for details.

• Drinking Water: Water from the cabin tap is not potable; use bottled water for drinking and brushing teeth.

Know Before You Go

What should you do once you arrive in Helsinki? Check out my city guide here.